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Friday 23 October 2020

Helmut Newton: Centenary Of Photographer Who Captured Female Sexuality & Desire To Be Celebrated This Autumn

Helmut Newton: 100 Years will be celebrated later this month on what would have been the late photographer's birthday. 

Credit Helmut Newton

The exhibition will feature eighteen original, vintage silver gelatine prints showcasing the widely imitated fashion photographer's erotically charged, black and white vignettes, often with voyeuristic and fetishistic undertones, which were the cornerstone of fashion bibles like Vogue.

Zebra One Gallery owner and curator, Gabrielle Du Plooy said:

"We've hand-picked some of his most important images from the past 100 years and are honoured to be marking such a momentous occasion.

"Vintage prints were usually sent by the photographer to the newspaper or magazine editors - most were destroyed or written over. 

"It's extremely rare to find them in immaculate condition, so we're incredibly excited about sharing these." 

Highlights of the show include a candid shot of a young Jerry Hall, spitting water onto her topless model friend, as well as two portraits of David Bowie, taken in Monte Carlo for Vogue before Let's Dance catapulted him to new levels of fame. 

It will also include his iconic Naked and Dressed series, featuring two almost identical images of four models - in one image, the women are all naked and in the other, they are dressed in couture Eighties fashion.

The exhibition will also feature one of the most famous fashion photographs of all time, the iconic Rue Aubriot. 

The haunting image shows androgynous model, Vibeke Knudsen standing alone in a Parisian, lamplit street in 1976, wearing an intentionally masculine Yves Saint Laurent dinner jacket, pinstriped wide leg trousers and white tie.

Newton explained: 

"With haute couture collections, you couldn't get the clothes during the day when customers were looking at them. So everything was done at night.

"I like working at night. "And I don't use a flash; I use the actual street lighting."

Newton revolutionised the depiction of female sexuality and desire, reversing gender stereotypes and showing women as strong and powerful agents, so consequently, stars including Michelle Pfeiffer, Catherine Deneuve and Charlotte Rampling queued up to be photographed by him.

The prolific, German-Australian photographer's work centred primarily on nudes, fashion and portraits, which challenged conventions with highly-stylised, edgy interpretations of decadent and sexual worlds, which were heavily inspired by film

His most celebrated work was made during the Seventies, when he photographed the most celebrated models of the day in top designers' clothes for the biggest magazines.

The images in this exhibition were gifted to art agent, Norman Solomon, in recognition of the work he had done for Newton in promoting his Private Property series of exhibitions in 1985.

Solomon recognised the potential value of these prints and kept them stored in conservation condition.

Helmut Newton: 100 Years at Zebra One Gallery from 31st October to 14th November 2020. CLICK HERE for more info.

by: Mike Cobley

Related links

Zebra One Gallery


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